A Guide to the City of Rethymno

With its lively atmosphere and its photogenic mix of Venetian and oriental elements, Rethymno has many loyal fans

Rethymno is the only city in Crete which is built on a cape, and more specifically, “on the boundary between calmness and fierceness,” as the location is eloquently described by local writer Pantelis Prevelakis. To the east stretches a vast sandy beach, while the coastline is rocky to the west. Unlike Irakleio or Hania, Rethymno never had a large port that would have made it a center of trade. But it does have a wonderful old harbor, full of color, lined with Venetian and Ottoman buildings that have for centuries been reflected in its calm waters. The best time to explore the city is very early in the morning, when the light is perfect and the tranquility a sheer delight. 

The cool air of morning is also propitious for making your way up to the Venetian citadel, the Fortezza. When it was built (1573-1580), on the hill once occupied by ancient Rithymna, it was the largest fortress on Crete. High up on the battlements, you will feel the salty breeze from the Sea of Crete; you can walk along the old defensive trenches, between the towers, bastions and gates, among the solitary palm trees. Here, too, is the Erofyli open-air theater, which hosts the celebrated Renaissance Festival every summer.